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Scotland |
Balquhidder
Rob Roy's Grave
Balquhidder is little more than a village, yet it draws
visitors from across the world because of its association with Rob
Roy. The intrepid outlaw is buried in the churchyard, under the crumbling
ruins of the old 17th century church. The grave is simple, with a low
iron railing, and you can get as close to it as you wish. The inscription
at the head of the grave says it all; "MacGregor despite them".
Beside are the graves of Rob Roy's wife and two of their four sons,
Coll and Robin. It seems likely that the gravestones were reused, for
they appear to be of a much earlier date than the death of the MacGregors
would indicate.
The story of Robin MacGregor is a strange one. He killed a
MacLaren of Invernenty in a land dispute, but escaped punishment,
but later he was found guilty of kidnapping a wealthy widow and was
hanged in Edinburgh. He was brought back to Balquhidder in ceremony
and laid in the grave of his brother Coll.
The Church
Legend tells that oldest church here was built on the grave of St
Angus, a 7th or 8th century monk who built an oratory, or cell, in
the field below the church. A newer kirk was then built in 1631 by
David Murray, Lord Scone, whose initials can be seen above the door.
This is the church that Rob Roy would have attended - if indeed he
attended church at all, which we do not know. One of the most famous
vicars of Balquhidder was Robert Kirk (see Aberfoyle),
and Kirk's wife is buried here. Lord Scone's church is now little more
than crumbling walls, a victim of damp and decay.
When the call went out for Highlanders to follow Bonnie
Prince Charlie in the ill-fated 1745 rebellion, one of those to answer
the call was the Stewart chief of Glen Buckie. On his way to join the
Prince, Stewart reached Leny, where he begged shelter from Buchannan
of Leny. When morning came, Stewart was found lying in his bed, a pistol
in his hand, and a bullet hole in his skull. Buchannan was executed
for the crime, though he protested his innocence, and Stewart was
laid to rest in Balquhidder churchyard. When the new church was built
here in 1855 Stewart's skull was unearthed, with a bullet still loose
inside it.
In 1855 the new building
was built on a small rise just above the older church. The church was
built by David Carnegie, laird of Stronvar, whose grave and those of
his family lie in the ruins of the old church. Inside the Victorian
building, the most immediately striking thing to meet your gaze is
the font. This is a huge, rough stone bowl, which may date to the
days of St Angus, or possibly even to pre-Christian times. The bowl
was found when the 1631 church was demolished. It had been built into
the wall of the church.
Standing against the north wall of the church is another historic
relic, called The St Angus Stone (Clach Aonghais). This is believed
to have been an original grave marker on the tomb of St Angus. The
surface of the stone bears a carving of a religious figure carrying
a chalice.
Creag an Tuirc
There is much more to Balquhidder than Rob Roy's grave, however. Just
a short walk through the woods behind the church brings you to a lovely
little waterfall on Kirkton Burn. Its a beautiful spot, though certainly
not a spectacular cascade. But the best is yet to come. Take a fork
in the path back to the church, and begin to climb the slopes above
the village. The way is generally easy, and if you come in spring or
summer you will see wildflowers growing on the hillsides, and rowan
trees showing off their berries.
A climb of some 20 minutes brings you to ‘Creag an Tuirc’ (Rock
of the Boar). A cairn
marks the spot where clan MacLaren assembled in times of trouble. When
danger threatened the clan, runners would spread the word to all the
clansmen, who would gather their weapons and make haste to reach this
spot high on the slopes over Balquhidder.
The view across the glen
and to the west along the length of down Loch Voil is simply spectacular,
and makes the climb seem very worthwhile. Sit on the bench set beneath
the cairn and soak in one of the Trossachs' best views. You can even
look down several hundred feet into the churchyard and get an eagle's
eye view of Rob Roy's grave.
Two popular walking trails lead through or near Balquhidder. The Coast
to Coast Walk from Oban to St Andrews and the Rob Roy Way, which stretches
from Drymen to Pitlochry, are both easily accessible from the village.
Loch Voil
Most people come to Balquhidder, view Rob Roy's grave, and return
to the A84 at Kinghouse. But if you do that, you'll miss
a treat. Instead, carry on up the narrow road that leads along the
northern shore of Loch Voil to Loch Doine. The scenery is spectacular,
though the way is narrow, and you'll have to keep a close eye out
for oncoming traffic. To the north the hills rise to the Braes of Balquhidder,
made famous in the song of the same name by Robert Tannahill.
The road
ends just beyond the western tip of Loch Doine, just beyond where a
traditional burial ground of Clan MacLaren is situated above the shore.
If you carry on to the very end of the road you will find Inverlochlarig,
where a farmhouse stands on the site of Rob Roy's house. This is such
a peaceful, timeless spot, the hustle and bustle of the world at large
seems unimportant and very far away. There are several hotels and rental
cottages along the shores of Balquhidder, making it a nice place for
a peaceful holiday.
Nearby:
Killin and the Falls of Dochart
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Accommodation |
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The Waverley Hotel Callander
Situated in Callander, the Gateway to the Highlands and the self proclaimed capital of the Trossachs National Park.The Waverley Hotel provides high quality accommodation , in the centre of Callander in the Trossachs. Each room is fully en-suite with colour flat screen TV and teacoffee making facilities.Our food is sourced locally and homemade, which includes some of Scotlands Favourite and Classic MealsWe have a fabulous selection of regular and guest ales that are constantly changing to keep your taste buds tantalized! All our beers are sourced from Breweries throughout Britain including local Micro - Breweries. Also on offer are a balanced selection of Scottish Malt Whiskies, Local and Continental Lagers and a few Speciality Beers. Look out for our Annual Beer Festivals in September and December.Enjoy live bands every Saturday March until October and December also every Friday in July and August.
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Accommodation |
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THE CRAGS HOTEL Callander
The Crags hotel is a small, family run hotel, with excellent food, charming atmopshere and comfortable rooms. The hotel also boasts a traditional, Scottish pub that serves the best pint in Calander! If you touring through Scotland, on business or if you simply want to get away for a couple of nights, the Crags is the perfect small hotel destination.
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