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Britain Update

 

Britain Update #35
June 1 , 2000

Welcome friends, its time to put the kettle on, settle into a comfortable armchair, and enjoy the best of Britain with Britain Update. But before you do, please take the time to forward this newsletter to someone who loves Britain as much as you do.

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Contents
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1. Great British Web Sites
2. New at Britain Express
3. UK Destinations
4. Travel news and tips

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Great British Web Sites
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Looking for a day out from visiting London? Surrey Choicenet ( http://web.ukonline.co.uk/members/honor.m/ ) may be just the ticket for planning your excursion. This site is packed with useful information about the Surrey region: there's a pictorial guide to the county of Surrey, history, town profiles, a virtual walk, a guide to the Thames River, the countryside, FAQ about Surrey, and biographies of famous Surrey people. This is a delightful site - highly recommended.

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New at Britain Express
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We've transformed our "Great British Sites" directory of UK web sites! The expanded listing of sites now includes a description of each site, and the directory has been divided by county and region to make it easier to find what you want. We've also added categories for travel services such as car rental and tour operators. URL: http://www.britainexpress.com/great_british_sites/

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UK Destinations: Chester
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This most delightful of cities was originally built by the Romans to control the native tribes in North Wales and northern Britain. The layout of the city still follows the Roman pattern, and the Roman defensive walls create a pleasant walk around the old city centre.

Roman remains abound in Chester - near Newgate you can visit a reconstructed Roman Garden, and a hypocaust, or central heating system. The Amphitheatre at Chester was the largest permanent amphitheatre in Britain, seating 7,000 people for entertainment spectacles. Today you sit in one of those seats and imagine the gladiatorial combats unfolding on the floor of the amphitheatre before you.

Chester was abandoned when the Romans left in the 5th century, but the Anglo-Saxons resettled the town and in the early 10th century it was refortified by Aethelflaeda, daughter of Alfred the Great.

Though the Roman heritage of Chester is attractive, it is as a medieval city that Chester is most known to visitors. The city abounds in medieval architecture and beautiful half-timbered buildings. The most famous of these is the complex known as "The Rows", a series of covered galleries above street-level shops lining Watergate, Eastgate, and Bridge Street. The layout of The Rows dates back to the 13th century.

Though the Roman heritage of Chester is attractive, it is as a medieval city that Chester is most known to visitors. The city abounds in medieval architecture and beautiful half-timbered buildings. The most famous of these is the complex known as "The Rows", a series of covered galleries above street-level shops lining Watergate, Eastgate, and Bridge Street. The layout of The Rows dates back to the 13th century.

Turning from wood to stone, another medieval building worth visiting is the Cathedral, originally built as an abbey church for a Benedictine monastery. A Saxon church here was founded at the start of the 10th century as a resting place for the bones of St. Werburgh, which had been brought from Hanbury, Staffordshire, in 875 to protect them from Danish attack. Throughout the medieval period the tomb of St. Werburgh was a popular pilgrimage centre.

The Benedictines rebuilt that earlier church and lived here for 500 years until disbanded by Henry VIII in 1540. The abbey church then became Chester Cathedral.

Within the Cathedral you can still see traces of the earlier monastic settlement, as well as lovely architectural features such as the 13th century Chapter House, with a cupboard of intricate medieval ironwork. An unusual feature of the Cathedral is the free-standing Bell Tower, or campanile.built in 1974. It is the first such separate bell tower built in Britain since the 15th century.

A much-photographed Chester landmark is the Eastgate Clock, built in 1897 to mark the Silver Jubilee of Queen Victoria. Its intricate iron framework, designed by architect John Douglas, is a marvel of ornate Victorian style.

Another Chester gate, Wolf Gate (next to the present Newgate), has a romantic ghost story associated with it: it seems that Ellen Aldersley, daughter of a city alderman, eloped through the gate in 1573. In the years since then the ghostly clatter of her horse's hooves have occasionally been heard around the area of the gate.

Another Chester legend holds that Harold, king of the Saxons, was not killed at the Battle of Hastings in 1066, but escaped and came to Chester, where he lived as a blind hermit in the Anchorite's Cell, a simple sandstone structure near the river.

Legends aside, there is much more to visit at Chester - the award-winning Grosvenor Museum, which includes a reconstruction of a Georgian Period House, and the Toy Museum, featuring the world's largest collection of Matchbox toys, are just two popular attractions.

And don't miss the familiar figure of the Chester Town Crier, who appears at The Cross at noon every day in summer, clad in a tricorn hat and bright red Georgian coat to shout out the news.

Take the time to explore Chester, and see if you don't agree with James Boswell,, who claimed that 'Chester pleases my fancy more than any town I ever saw...'

Web Resources:
Chester History and Tourism
Cheshire Tourism
Chester Hotels

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UK Travel Tips
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From the Electronic Telegraph
Downpour opens up 40ft hole in ancient monument
By Sean O'Neill

One of Europe's most significant ancient monuments has become dangerously unstable after heavy rain caused a gaping hole to open in its surface.

The 40ft deep hole, which measures six feet across, appeared in Silbury Hill, the oldest earthen mound in Europe and part of the World Heritage Site at Avebury, Wiltshire. The National Trust, which manages the monument, was working urgently yesterday to cap the hole to prevent injury to the public and stabilise the mound to avoid further archaeological damage.

Experts believe that extreme wet weather, culminating in a huge downpour on Sunday, caused the collapse of the upper part of a 100ft deep shaft dug in the 18th century in an attempt to discover if the hill was a burial site. Silbury Hill was built in three phases about 4,500 years ago with chalk dug from nearby quarry pits. It covers five acres and pre-dates both Stonehenge and the stone circles at Avebury.

DURHAM'S GHOST WALKS
Durham, north-east England, is the latest city to start regular guided ghost walks. With hauntings, hangings, ghostly pipers, grey ladies and haunted prison cells on the menu, it promises to be an eerie evening. The walks start outside the city's tourist office at 18:30 on Mondays (July-September) and cost £3. Durham's ancient castle and cathedral, high above the River Wear, are a World Heritage Site. A Summer Festival is staged on July 1-2. Ghost tour, tel: 0191 386 1500.

YORK'S VIKING 'SKULLSPLITTER'
The war-like traits of Britain's Viking invaders are explored in a new permanent exhibition in York. "Skullsplitter" (opens May 27) at the Jorvik Viking Centre, a recreation of the city in its Norse period, includes the skeleton of a real warrior, his mortal wounds still in evidence. Using archaeological discoveries and sketches, the exhibition shows how experts can determine battle techniques from the nicks and scars left in 1,000-year-old skeletons. The Jorvik Viking Centre, Coppergate, York, is open daily, admission £5.65 adult, £4.25 child. Tel: 01904 643211. Web site: www.jorvik-viking-centre.co.uk

ARCHBISHOP'S LONDON PALACE OPENS
Lambeth Palace, London home of Archbishops of Canterbury since 1197, is open to the public for the first time ever. The palace, near Lambeth Bridge, is open Tuesdays to Saturdays until November 4. Admission - £6 adults, £4 concessions - is by pre-booked timed ticket only (phone 020 7898 1198).

Highlights of the guided tours include the 12th century crypt; the Great Hall dating from 1660; the library, with over 4,000 manuscripts and 200,000 printed books, including a 1455 Gutenberg Bible; the Guard Room, where Sir Thomas More is said to have refused to swear the Oath of Supremacy; the chapel, and portraits of archbishops. The palace opening is part of London String of Pearls, a millennium festival under which a variety of famous buildings near the River Thames are opening to the public this year. Web site: www.stringofpearls.org.uk

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That's all for now. Until next issue, let me remind you that laughter is contagious. Spread some around.

David Ross
Editor
Britain Express
http://www.britainexpress.com
The UK travel and heritage guide
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Contents © 2001 David Ross and Britain Express

  

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