One
of the most complete Saxon churches in the UK, St John's, Escomb has been a place
of worship since approximately 670 AD. The building materials that make up the
church go back a lot further, though; many were taken from the old Roman fort
at Binchester, and Roman inscriptions can be seen on many of the stones used in
the construction of the church (see photos below).
The church is located
in a lovely, shaded green, in the centre of Escomb village, 1 1/2 miles from Bishop
Auckland. It is not known for certain when the church was begun, but archuitectural
evidence points to sometime between 670 and 690 AD. This would make it one of
the first Northumbrian Christian churches to be built.
As with most Saxon
churches the layout of Escomb church is very simple. There is a small south porch
giving access to a narrow nave. The font is to the west of the south door. To
the right, the nave leads under a high chancel arch to a very small sanctuary
where the high altar is located.
On the exterior south wall of the church
is a Saxon sundial, believed to be the oldest still in its original setting in
the entire country. There are only three lines on the sundial, corresponding to
the three principal times of worship during the daily schedule of early monks;
Terce, Sext. and Nones. Under the lines a serrpent stretches. Several items on
the exterior north wall are worth noting; a projecting lip of stone protects a
Roman inscription. The stone was simply re-used by the Saxon builders of the church,
so he inscription is upside down. It reads "LEG
VI", meaning, Sixth Legion. Nearer ground level is the north
door. This extremely simple doorway is generally accepted to be of Celtic origin.
The surounding masonry work indicates that the entire doorway may have been taken
whole from Binchester and re-used here.
Inside
the church there is an absolute wealth of Saxon material. The south porch shows
two Saxon stone crosses, and several other bits and pieces of interesting carving
found on the site. Inside the nave, the font is extremelyt simple. It dates to
at least the 13th century, though it may be quite a bit earlier. (see photo).
Set
high on the north wall is another Roman sytone, set on its side, and used as part
of the supports for a Saxon window. The inscription on the stone reads, "BONO
REI PUBUCAE NATO", which translates loosely as "To the man born for
the good of the state". Moving up the nave you come to the Chancel Arch,
where the Saxons again reused an existing arch from Bincheste Roman fort. The
stonework of the Romans was so good that no masonry was needed to set the arch
in place. On the underside of the arch, clearly visible in the photo below, are
paintings from the 12th or 13th century. Behind the high altar is a striking carving
in the shape of a cross. This is believed to be a 9th century grave stone, but
it may be the remains of preaching cross dating to the earliest days of Celtic
Christianity in Northumbria, before the church was constructed.
Taken as
a whole, Escomb Saxon Church contains a wealth of fascinating architectural and
historical detail, and is well worth a visit.
Photos
of Escomb Saxon Church
Click on an image to see it full-sized
The exterior of the church, south wall
The north door, made of re-used stones from the Roman fort
at Binchester
A consecration cross, carved into the stone behind
the pulpit. This is believed to indicate a link between Escomb and the monastery
at Lindisfarne.
This Saxon "preaching cross" or grave marker,
stands behind the high altar.
The 13th century piscina, where the priest would
wash communion vessels
The chancel arch, re-used Roman stones with traces
of medieval wall paintings
Saxon north window. To the left of the window is an inscribed
Roman stone.
The 13th century font, which may have originally
been part of a Roman pillar
Saxon long and short stonework at the xterior south east corner
This very unusual early Saxon sundial dates to the late 7th
or early 8th century. It can be found on the exterior, south wall of the church
Sundial over the south porch. Probably 17th century.
Under the lip of stone in this photo is a Roman inscription.(upside
down). It reads LEG VI' (6th Legion). Due to the effects of weathering only the
numeral VI can be seen clearly.
Details
Escomb Saxon Church
Escomb
County Durham
England
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