One
of the most complete Saxon churches in the UK, St John's, Escomb has
been a place of worship since approximately 670 AD. The building materials
that make up the church go back a lot further, though; many were taken
from the old Roman fort at Binchester, and Roman inscriptions can be
seen on many of the stones used in the construction of the church (see
photos below).
The church is located in a lovely, shaded green, in the centre of Escomb
village, 1 1/2 miles from Bishop Auckland. It is not known for certain
when the church was begun, but archuitectural evidence points to sometime
between 670 and 690 AD. This would make it one of the first Northumbrian
Christian churches to be built.
As with most Saxon churches the layout of Escomb church is very simple.
There is a small south porch giving access to a narrow nave. The font
is to the west of the south door. To the right, the nave leads under
a high chancel arch to a very small sanctuary where the high altar is
located.
On the exterior south wall of the church is a Saxon sundial, believed
to be the oldest still in its original setting in the entire country.
There are only three lines on the sundial, corresponding to the three
principal times of worship during the daily schedule of early monks;
Terce, Sext. and Nones. Under the lines a serrpent stretches. Several
items on the exterior north wall are worth noting; a projecting lip
of stone protects a Roman inscription. The stone was simply re-used
by the Saxon builders of the church, so he inscription is upside down.
It reads "LEG VI",
meaning, Sixth Legion. Nearer ground level is the north door. This extremely
simple doorway is generally accepted to be of Celtic origin. The surounding
masonry work indicates that the entire doorway may have been taken whole
from Binchester and re-used here.
Inside
the church there is an absolute wealth of Saxon material. The south
porch shows two Saxon stone crosses, and several other bits and pieces
of interesting carving found on the site. Inside the nave, the font
is extremelyt simple. It dates to at least the 13th century, though
it may be quite a bit earlier. (see photo).
Set high on the north wall is another Roman sytone, set on its side,
and used as part of the supports for a Saxon window. The inscription
on the stone reads, "BONO REI PUBUCAE NATO", which translates
loosely as "To the man born for the good of the state". Moving
up the nave you come to the Chancel Arch, where the Saxons again reused
an existing arch from Bincheste Roman fort. The stonework of the Romans
was so good that no masonry was needed to set the arch in place. On
the underside of the arch, clearly visible in the photo below, are paintings
from the 12th or 13th century. Behind the high altar is a striking carving
in the shape of a cross. This is believed to be a 9th century grave
stone, but it may be the remains of preaching cross dating to the earliest
days of Celtic Christianity in Northumbria, before the church was constructed.
Taken as a whole, Escomb Saxon Church contains a wealth of fascinating
architectural and historical detail, and is well worth a visit.
Photos of Escomb Saxon Church
Click on an image to see it full-sized
The exterior of the church, south
wall
The north door, made of re-used stones from
the Roman fort at Binchester
A consecration cross, carved into
the stone behind the pulpit. This is believed to indicate a link
between Escomb and the monastery at Lindisfarne.
This Saxon "preaching cross"
or grave marker, stands behind the high altar.
The 13th century piscina, where the
priest would wash communion vessels
The chancel arch, re-used Roman stones
with traces of medieval wall paintings
Saxon north window. To the left of the window
is an inscribed Roman stone.
The 13th century font, which may
have originally been part of a Roman pillar
Saxon long and short stonework at the xterior
south east corner
This very unusual early Saxon sundial dates
to the late 7th or early 8th century. It can be found on the exterior,
south wall of the church
Sundial over the south porch. Probably 17th
century.
Under the lip of stone in this photo is a Roman
inscription.(upside down). It reads LEG VI' (6th Legion). Due
to the effects of weathering only the numeral VI can be seen clearly.
Location:
In the centre of Escomb, 1½ miles west of Bishop Auckland
Entry:
Free
The church gates and the church doors are locked, but the key is easily
available from a nearby house (just a few yards from the church itself).
See details on a notice posted on the church gates - and be sure to
return the key after visiting!
Guided tours are available by previous arrangement - see website
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