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Stoke
The
village of Stoke lies midway between the historic house of Hartland
Abbey and the old smuggler's port of Hartland Quay.
The glory of Stoke is the parish church, dedicated to
the 5th century Celtic saint, St Nectan. The strikingly tall tower of
St Nectan's (128 feet) has given the church the moniker, "Cathedral
of North Devon". The tower is visible for miles in all directions,
and is used as a landmark by ships at sea. In the mediaval period St
Nectans was the church for the monks of Hartland Abbey, who walked the
mile uphill to the church from the abbey itself for services 6 times
every day and night.
The church dates from 1360, though it was built upon the
remains of an earlier building believed to date from 1170. The font
of the earlier church still survives.
The rood screen (1450) is the most impressive aspect of
the church interior. This is a magnificently carved wooden screen of
11 bays, stretching 45 feet across the nave. It rises to a height of
12 1/2 feet and is almost 6 feet wide at the top. So massive is the
screen that at one time the organ and seating were poised on top of
it.
Alfred the Great is said to have bequeathed Hartland to
his son Edward, and later stories associate St Nectans with Arthurian
legend. Stained glass windows in the north aisle depct Arthur, Alfred,
and William the Conqueror.
St Nectans Holy Well
Just downhill from the church a narrow path leads off the road to St
Nectans Well, an old holy well housed beneath a stone shelter. Three
flagstones lead to a simple arched doorway set in a small wellhead structure
of stone. Padlocked iron barred doors allow you to see the inner chamber
where the water bubbles out.
The legend of St Nectan tells that he was on a journey
north from Cornwall when he was set upon by bandits. The bandits beheaded
the saint, whereupon he picked up his severed head and carried it to
this spot. When he set the head down, water sprang forth from the ground.
A similar story is told of St Kenelm's Well in Winchcombe, Gloucestershire,
and other holy wells in the UK.
Images of Stoke
Click on an image to see it full
sized

St Nectans Church, known as the 'Cathedral of North Devon' |

Carved head on St Nectans |

The painted ceiling of the nave of St Nectans, Stoke |

Detail of the carved 154th century rood screen |

Memorial carving in the churchyard |
St Nectans holy well in Stoke |
Nearby
Hartland Abbey
© David Ross and Britain Express
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