Britain Update #51
February 15 , 2001

Welcome friends, its time to put the kettle on, settle into a comfortable armchair, and enjoy the best of Britain with Britain Update. But before you do, please take the time to forward this newsletter to someone who loves Britain as much as you do.

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Contents
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1. UK Destinations: Eden Valley
2. Competition - win a 9 day tour!
3. Louis London Walks - travel book review
4. New at Britain Express
5. Travel news and notes

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UK Destinations: The Eden Valley
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The Eden River begins on the verges of the Yorkshire Dales National Park and runs north through Cumbria before looping west to the sea at Carlisle. On the way the river passes through beautiful open countryside which has remained untrammelled by the throngs of tourists flocking to the Lake District further west. The valley is broad and the hills flanking it are low, giving a sense of wide open space. The countryside is given over to farmland, with open fields edged by hedgerows and drystone walls.

This is excellent walking country and there are a multitude of paths to choose from, including those that criss-cross the North Pennine AONB (Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty) to the east of the valley. For more vigorous walking, the Pennine Way National Trail touches on the Eden Valley at Appleby-in-Westmorland as it wends its way towards Scotland.

Appleby is a good base for a visit to the Eden Valley; large enough to boast a variety of accommodation and services, yet small enough to give a feeling of "getting away from it all".

Appleby Castle was founded in 1100 by Ranulf le Meschin, who may have founded the town at the same time. The great square keep of the castle was built sometime around 1170, when the property was owned by Hugh de Morville. De Morville had the property confiscated for his part in the murder of Thomas a Becket. Eventually the castle passed to the de Clifford family, and around 1688 the hall block was remodelled into a luxurious mansion. Appleby Castle is open to visitors Easter-Sept daily from 10am-5pm; Oct daily 10am-4pm.

For a more rambunctious experience, visit Appleby in early June, when the Appleby Horse Fair takes over. The fair, in continuous existence since 1750, is Britain's largest gypsy gathering, and hundreds of tradition horse-drawn caravans converge on nearby Gallows Hill, along with more modern motor-driven gypsy vehicles.

If you prefer a more sedate experience, try the Settle to Carlisle steam railway, which stops at most points along the Eden Valley. In the Victorian period the line was known as the most picturesque route to Scotland, passing over 17 viaducts and through 14 tunnels on its way north. Phone 066 066 0607 for recorded information on scheduled and special events on the railway. Consider buying a "Freedom of the Line" rail pass, which allows unlimited travel for a 3 day period for a cost of £30.

For tours and charters on the Settle-Carlisle Railway see:
http://www.railcharter.co.uk/
http://www.eagle.co.uk/trains21/
http://www.toursatpathfinder.freeserve.co.uk/

At Acorn Bank near Temple Sowerby, the National Trust operates a water mill dating back to 1597. Surrounding the mill is a superb walled garden notable for its profusion of spring blooms, especially daffodils and wood anemones, plus a sunken garden, and a world-famous collection of culinary and medicinal herbs. Tel: 017683 61893

Just north of Little Salkeld is Long Meg and Her Daughters, a stone circle boasting 59 stones covering an oval roughly 100 feet by 94 feet. Legend tells that the stones were witches who were petrified by a wizard. The story goes on to say that the stones are uncountable, and if anyone should manage to arrive at the same total twice, the spell will be broken.

For information on visiting the Eden Valley, contact the Eden Valley Tourism Association at
http://www.visiteden.co.uk/main.htm

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UK Travel books : Louis London Walks
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Louis London Walks are a series of booklets, each with their own walking theme. They are a handy size to slip in your pocket, making them useful for a walk as well as easy to pack in a suitcase. Each booklet, printed on heavy stock, ranges in length from 14-18 pages and starts with an introduction to the walk, giving some historical facts about the subject. A clear, easy-to-read map is numbered with all the highlights on the walk. The map, however, does not provide a scale or actual distance for the walk or between the sites - information that would be helpful. Each walk is estimated at about two-three hours, but with stops for museums, refreshments, etc. along the way, these walks can be as long as you want to make them.

The booklets and the walks are extremely well organised to take in the sites in a logical manner. Underground stations, when needed, are named, and each walk ends at one, making it easy to grab a ride back to your hotel or to another walk. In addition to clear directions for the walk itself (turn here, stay on the left side of the street, etc.), attractions are detailed in different coloured boxes, making them stand out well. The opening times and some phone numbers for attractions are given. As you follow the walks, you know what you are looking at and why.

Titles in the series are: Jack the Ripper, Sherlock Holmes Walk, William Shakespeare's London, A Walk through Princess Diana's London, and the Beatles in London Walk. Two titles to be published include Winston Churchill and Historic Pubs.

Let's have a look at one of the titles: William Shakespeare's London. The introduction gives a capsulated version of his life and the interesting curse written on his grave. There are 26 sites to see on the walk. Opening information and phone numbers are given for the New Globe Theatre, The Anchor Inn, the Clink Prison Museum (owned by Bishops who imprisoned their own prostitutes there), The Golden Hinde, Southwark Cathedral (a capsule information section on the Cathedral), The George Inn (the last remaining 14th century galleried coaching inn in London), the Old Operating Theatre Museum (sounds gruesome), HMS Belfast, St Magnus the Martyr, and The Monument. As you stop at each of these and the other 16 sites on the walk, the booklet provides you with pertinent information, Shakespeare's connection with the site (he seems to have had a lot of drinking spots) and interesting sidelights. It even suggests places to grab some grub.

Even if you never plan to take any of the walks, the booklets are a great addition to your library. They are entertaining and informative. Each is extremely well researched, full of interesting facts, unusual information, and historical quotes (where appropriate for the title).These well-written booklets will entice you to find out more about the places in them and take the walks the next time you are in London.

The London Walks booklets may also be ordered on-line at http://www.llwalks.co.uk, for £2.99. Be sure to click on the flash at the website. It's a great way to get a feel for the walks and what's in the booklets. If you buy four walks, the fifth is free. The walks can also be ordered by emailing llw@cableinet.co.uk or writing direct to Louis London Walks, 54 Braeside Ave., Wimbledon, London, SW19 3PT, UK. Postage charges will vary depending on the country.

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New at Britain Express
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Here's a few articles added since the last Update
Romanesque architecture
Saxon architecture
Saxon towns

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UK Travel Tips and News
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LEEDS CASTLE EVENTS
Leeds Castle in Maidstone, Kent marks 25 years of being open to the public with a series of special events. Events planned include a gardener's weekend (March 31-April 1), Easter celebrations including an Easter Egg Hunt (April 14-16), a festival of English food and wine (May 12-13), Amazing Mazes Week - with 25 mazes designed to challenge all ages (May 26-June 3), open-air classical concerts on June 30 and July 7, a children's promenade concert on July 4, a festival of floral art (July 19-22), and a hot air balloon and vintage car weekend (September 8-9). Details at http://www.leeds-castle.co.uk

NATIONAL FOOTBALL MUSEUM OPENS
Afficionados of "The Beautiful Game", won't want to miss the new museum dedicated to England's favourite pastime (well, second favourite if you count drinking beer). The museum, to open in March, is housed at Deepdale Stadium in Preston, Lancashire, home of Preston North End FC, the oldest professional football club in England (1888). The museum is divided into the "First Half", with exhibitions covering the history of the game, and the "Second Half", with themed interactive displays. The FIFA exhibit at the museum showcases football memorabilia from around the world. Details at
http://www.nationalfootballmuseum.com

THE WAPPING PROJECT
A large Victorian warehouse at Wapping, in London's Docklands, has been converted into a modern centre for the arts. The centre, to be called The Wapping Project, was recently opened at a cost of £4 million. The Project showcases work by contemporary European, American and British designers. The Wapping Project, Wapping Hydraulic Power Station, Wapping Wall, London E1W 3ST. Tel. +44 (0)20 7680 2080. Open daily. Onsite car parking. Wapping tube station is quite close and the famous The Prospect of Whitby pub is just opposite.

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That's all for now. Until next issue, let me remind you that laughter is contagious. Spread some around.

David Ross
Editor
Britain Express
http://www.britainexpress.com
The UK travel and heritage guide
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Contents © 2001 David Ross and Britain Express