Summary
Abbotsbury packs a lot to see in a
small space. This quiet village on the Dorset coast boasts a world-famous
Swannery, an award-winning sub tropical garden, a remarkable medieval
tithe barn, an Iron Age hill fort, and a striking medieval chapel on
the hill above the village.
History of Abbotsbury
The history of settlement at Abbotsbury goes back to at least the Bronze
Age (2300 B.C. - 700 B.C.) Barrow burials have been found just north
of the present village site, and Wears Hill, to the northwest, boasts
an Iron Age hill fort called Abbotsbury
Castle. The fort encloses an area of 4 acres, and within the double
ramparts, the outlines of huts can still be seen.
The
Medieval Abbey
The first written record of Abbotsbury dates to 1023, when King Canute
granted land in the area to his steward, Orc, who later founded a Benedictine
monastery here. That monastery was to become one of the wealthiest in
Dorset. Two major reminders of the monastic presence remain in Abbotsbury.
One is the former abbey tithe barn, a magnificent structure built about
1400, which now houses a country museum. The barn was originally 270
feet long; long enough to pack several parish churches inside, though
it is now half that length.
The second reminder is St Catherine's Chapel, which looks down on Abbotsbury
from its perch atop the hill which dominates the village. The chapel,
which is built entirely of local stone, survived the Dissoloution of
the Monasteries because it was so useful as a navigation aid to ships
crossing Lyme Bay. Surrounding the chapel are wide terraces cut into
the hillside. These are strip lynchets, or agricultural terraces created
in the Middle Ages. The way they hug the curve of the hillside has given
them the local nickname "Chapel Rings".
A striking carving in Purbeck marble, thought to represent a 12th century
abbot, is preserved inside the porch of St Nicholas parish church, while
foundations of the north wall of the Abbey can still be seen in the
churchyard.
The
church
The church itself was built in the late 14th century to serve the village,
not the abbey. The interior is notable for the gilded reredos, which
covers almost the entire east wall behind the altar. The reredos, which
depicts the ten commandments, is crafted from plaster, surmounted by
a cupola raised on columns. It was donated to the church by Mrs Susanna
Strangways Horner in 1751. Much older is the octagonal font, thought
to be contemporary with the founding of the church.
Abbotsbury in the Civil War
St Nicholas's might appear a place of peace and calm today, but such
was not always the case. The Strangways family, who held the manor of
Abbotsbury, were staunch supporters of Charles II during the Civil War.
In 1643 a Parliamentary force atempted to occupy the family house. Lady
Strangways refused to cooperate with them, and as a result, the house
was looted. But worse was to follow; in November 1644 a Parliamentary
army marched south from Dorchester, determined to defeat the Royalist
garrison of Abbotsbury, then commanded by Colonel James Strangways,
son of the current lord of Abbotsbury. Strangways had some of his men
occupy the church. The Roundheads stormed St Nicholas's, and in a sharp
skirmish, defeated Strangway's men. Two bullet holes from that conflict
can be seen in the Jacobean canopy above the pulpit.
The Parliamentarians then attacked the manor, which they took after
a battle lasting six hours. They gleefully began to ransack the house,
heedless of warnings from the defeated royalists that barrels of powder
were in imminent danger of exploding. The resulting explosion damaged
the house beyond reparation, so that today can be found of the structure.
The village of Abbotsbury went into a decline after the war, so that
by 1752 the Journal of London was given to proclaim that "All the
people of Abbotsbury, including the vicar, are thieves, smugglers, and
plunderers of wrecks."
Don't be put off by that dire verdict - Abbotsbury is a wonderful place
to visit today. The chapel can be reached via Rope Walk, and affords
superb views out over Chesil Beach and The Fleet to the sea. The Swannery
draws nature lovers every spring to see baby swans by the hundreds.
Just west of the village lies Abbotsbury Sub Tropical Garden, founded
by Elizabeth Strangways Horner, later Lady Ilchester.
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Ideally located on the West Cliff just a minute from the beach and within easy walking distance of the town centre. Extensive parking, a restaurant and a modern leisure centre with indoor and outdoor heated pools, sauna, solarium and gym have made it one of the most popular hotels in … more >>
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