Tewkesbury

Summary
An historic market town at the confluence of the Severn and Avon rivers, with a superb abbey church. Site of the final, decisive battle of the Wars of the Roses.

The Town
The town of Tewkesbury wears its past well; despite its focus as a modern shopping centre for the surrounding region, you are never far from reminders of Tewkesbury's colourful heritage. I don't know if there's ever been a comparison survey to find the town with the highest proportion of half-timbered buildings in England, but if such a survey ever took place, Tewkesbury would surely be in the running for honours!

Among these historic buildings is the Bell Inn, just outside the Abbey grounds. The Bell is reputed to have surviving timbers from the 13th century, and wall paintings in the dining area date from that period. Almost as old is the Royal Hop Pole, which dates from the 14th century. The Hop Pole was mentioned by Charles Dickens in "The Pickwick Papers".

There are few actual "attractions" beyond the Abbey (which is quite worth a visit on its own), however, Tewkesbury is a very enjoyable place to stroll about, taking in the wonderful historic architecture, and peering down the medieval alleyways that open at regular intervals off the main streets. One of these alleyways leads to the Old Baptist Chapel, a 17th century place of worship in a restored half timbered building, furnished with period furniture. For views of the town, please see our Tewkesbury Photo Guide.

Tewkesbury Abbey and half timbered buildings

Tewkesbury Abbey
The crowning jewel of Tewkesbury is its superb abbey church, which is every bit as impressive and worth a visit as many a more widely known cathedral.

Tewkesbury Abbey is quite unusual in one respect; you can actually get quite good views of it. Many major churches in the UK are quite difficult to see clearly as you approach. Often the surrounding buildings encroach on the church site, and obscure the building itself.

Such is not the case at Tewkesbury Abbey. Green fields creep almost to the Abbey itself, with the result that excellent views of the church can be had. And that is no small thing, as the quite remarkable medieval architecture can be more easily appreciated.

The Abbey was founded in 1102 by Robert FitzHamon, cousin of William the Conqueror, and FitzHamon's remarkable chantry chapel can be seen in the south aisle of the abbey church. Tewkesbury is blessed with an extraordinary collection of exceptional chantry chapels, including those of several members of the DeSpenser family, and the truly magnificent Beauchamp Chapel, built by Isabella, Countess of Warwick, for herself and her two husbands, both Earls (of Warwick and Worcester).

The vaulting of the nave is quite superb, as are the Norman drum pillars between the nave and aisles. For an extensive look inside Tewkesbury Abbey, please see our Abbey Photo Tour.

The Battle of Tewkesbury
The green fields beside the Abbey of Tewkesbury are now empty, save for playgrounds in one corner. Where children now play, the fields were once wet with blood, and the air filled with the sounds of conflict; this is Bloody Meadow, and on this peaceful spot in 1471 the armies of Edward IV met forces led by the Duke of Somerset on behalf of Queen Margaret. The result was a decisive victory for Edward, and a terrible blow to Lancastrian hopes. See our British Battles section for more about the background and consequences of the Battle Tewkesbury.