Yarmouth, St James Church

St James Church, Yarmouth

The parish church of Yarmouth dates to the early years of the 17th century and stands on the site of an earlier medieval building. Highlights include the Holmes Chapel, erected in 1692 to house a memorial to Sir Robert Holmes, Governor of the Isle of Wight from 1667-1692.

History

The medieval church of Yarmouth was badly damaged in a French raid on the Isle of Wight in 1377 and was rebuilt in its current location, only to be damaged again by another French raid in 1543. Only the nave pillars remain from that second medieval building and the remainder of the church we see today was erected between 1614 and 1626.

The church exterior

The top stage of the tower was added in 1831 at the expense of Daniel Alexander, partly as a memorial to Alexander's son and partly as an aid to mariners. The church was heavily remodelled in 1832-33 and restored twice more during the 19th century.

The church consists of an aisled nave, chancel, and west tower. South of the chancel is the Holmes Chapel, home to memorials to generations of the Holmes family. The pulpit dates to 1873 and is carved from Caen stone, as is the font, which dates to the same period.

The Holmes Memorial

Perhaps the most important figure in Yarmouth's history is Sir Robert Holmes (1622-1692). Holmes was a successful naval commander and adventurer. He was also close to King Charles II and the king is known to have stayed with Holmes on two visits to Yarmouth.

Admiral Sir Robert Holmes Memorial, 1692

In the Holmes Chapel stands an extraordinary life-sized sculpture of Sir Robert Holmes, though the story of how the sculpture came to be here is even more extraordinary than the sculpture itself.

According to tradition, the sculpture was made as a likeness of King Louis XIIV of France. The sculptor had completed the body and was waiting until he arrived in France and could view his subject in person to complete the head, but the ship conveying the sculpture and its sculptor to France was captured by Holmes.

When Holmes learned that the sculpture was intended for the King of France, he commanded the sculptor to finish the carving but substitute his own head for the king's.

A closer look at the Holmes sculpture

At least, that's the traditional version of the story.

Some historians think that the sculpture's head looks unlike other portraits of Holmes and very much like other likenesses of King Louis, so it is entirely possible that Holmes simply used a captured statue for his own memorial.

Other historians suggest that the statue is nowhere near grand enough for a monarch of France and, therefore, the whole legend is fabricated.

The verbose epitaph is in Latin, but there is a handy information plaque beside the monument that gives the translation (I have expanded the epitaph into distinct paragraphs for readability):

Despite the effusive epitaph, what really happened is that Holmes bought the governorship of the Isle of Wight from a cash-strapped king. This post gave him the right to claim 2/3 of all wreckage from shipwrecked vessels and the booty of any foreign vessels captured in waters of Wight's shores. As a result, Holmes grew enormously wealthy.

Henry Holmes, 1751 (aged 5)

To give Holmes his due, he strengthened Yarmouth Castle and the defences at Sandown and Cowes. His grandson, also named Robert, erected the statue we see today. He also established charities to aid the poor and assist apprentices on the island.

Historical Highlights

In the north aisle is a painted royal coat of arms to King George I, dated 1715. Set into the floor are several 17th-century ledger slabs and on the wall is a poignant memorial to Henry Holmes, who died in 1751 at just five years old. An epitaph to Henry's father, Thomas Holmes (d. 1764) has been appended to the base of the memorial.

In the south aisle is a memorial to Daniel Alexander, his wife, and two sons. In the west gallery is a striking 19th-century organ crafted by Henry Speechly & Son of London.

Royal coat of arms, 1715

Look for the wall bracket next to the pulpit; though the hourglass it holds is Victorian, the bracket itself dates to 1625. On the walls are funeral hatchments to the Rushwork and Holmes families. On the south wall is a monument by Joseph Nollekens in memory of Captain John Urry (d. 1802).

Visiting

The church stands at the northern end of St James Street, a very short stroll from the ferry terminal and the castle. The church is usually open to visitors and was open when we visited.