Kilnave Chapel and Cross, Islay
History, tourist information, and nearby accommodation
HERITAGE HIGHLIGHTS: 8th-century cross
The name Kilnave cromes from cill for chapel, and Naomh for holy, or saint. Another version of the chapel dedications suggests that it was named for a Celtic saint named Nem. The chapel dates to the late 14th century and stands on a level terrace of land overlooking Loch Gruinart.
The chapel is a simple rectangle about 14 feet by 30 feet. The striking feature of the roofless ruin is the walls, which measure over 2 feet thick. There is a low, round-headed doorway under the west gable, and unless you are very short you will have to stoop to enter. Look for bolt holes on either side of the doorway, where a strong timber beam could be pulled across the opening for security.
Near the doorway is a slab with a deep depression, similar to the depressions in the wishing stone at Kilchoman.
The combination of weathering and breakage has made one of the cross arms point up to the sky and the other point down to the earth, giving the cross a very human look, a little like a scarecrow.
No one seems certain when the cross was carved, but one likely date is some time in the late 8th century, though other estimates suggest it was carved as early as the 5th century. It certainly predates the chapel ruins by at least 400 years and quite probably much more, suggesting that the chapel stands on a site long considered sacred. After the Reformation it became part of Kilchoman parish.
Murder at the ChapelA grim tale accounts for the chapel being roofless. In 1598 a ferocious clan battle took place nearby between the MacLeans and MacDonalds. The MacDonalds traditionally ruled Islay, but Sir Lachlan Mor Maclean claimed that the island should belong to him as part of his wife's dowry. MacLean landed at Loch Gruinart with 800-1000 men. The MacDonald ruler of Islay was MacLean's nephew, Sir James MacDonald, 9th of Dunyveg. MacDonald offered his uncle half the island, but only for his lifetime.
The outnumbered islanders, aided by allies from Arran and Kintyre, used a clever ruse to lure the MacDonalds on. They pretended to retreat intio the setting sun, then turned and attacked with the light in their enemies eyes. The MacLeans and their allies were victorious, and over 280 MacDonalds were killed. Among the slain was Sir Lachlan Mor Maclean, who was shot by an arrow through the eye fired by a dwarf named Dubh Sith (Black Fairy).
The remaining MacDonalds fled towards their boats on the shore of loch, and about 30 men were cut off from the boats and took refuge in the chapel. The MacLeans showed no mercy and burned the chapel with their enemies trapped inside. Only one man survived the blaze.
Sir John MacDonald was also killed in what became known as Battle of Traigh Ghruinneart, or the Battle of Gruinart Strand.
Kilnave is one of the most picturesque sites on Islay, and the bizarre shape of the slender cross makes it one of the most compelling historic crosses to visit in the west of Scotland.
Because Islay is an island the 'nearest accommodation' properties listed below may not be on Islay itself but on the Scottish mainland. The best source we have found for accommodation on the island is Isle of Islay.com, a dedicated local website offering a wonderful mix of local information, history, activities, and accommodation information.
About Kilnave Chapel and Cross
Address: Kilnave, Argyll and Bute, Scotland
Attraction Type: Historic Church
Location: On a minor road off the B8017 on the western shore of Loch Gruinart. Open access site, just east of the road to Ardnave. Nearest postcode for satnavs is PA44 7PP
Photo Credit: David Ross and Britain Express
NEARBY HISTORIC ATTRACTIONS
Heritage Rated from 1- 5 (low to exceptional) on historic interest
Loch Gruinart RSPB Nature Reserve - 2.7 miles (Countryside)
Kilchoman Crosses and Old Church - 6.7 miles (Historic Church)
Finlaggan Castle - 7.1 miles (Castle)
Kilmeny Old Parish Church - 7.5 miles (Historic Church)
Bowmore Round Church - 7.5 miles (Historic Church)
Museum of Islay Life - 8.2 miles (Museum)
Kilchiaran Chapel and Cup Stone - 8.6 miles (Historic Church)
Dun Nosebridge - 8.8 miles (Prehistoric Site)
Nearest Accommodation to Kilnave Chapel and Cross:
Nearby accommodation is calculated 'as the crow flies' from Kilnave Chapel and Cross. 'Nearest' may involve a long drive up and down glens or, if you are near the coast, may include a ferry ride! Please check the property map to make sure the location is right for you.